In this article:
This is the fourth of a five-part series from our December 2025 trip to the United States. After New York, Washington D.C., and Las Vegas, this leg takes us from Los Angeles up the Pacific Coast Highway to Monterey, arguably the most scenic stretch of driving in the country.
Prologue
Los Angeles was never meant to be a destination in itself for us. It was a starting point, the launchpad for a Pacific Coast Highway road trip that would eventually take us all the way to Yosemite. We had originally considered squeezing in Griffith Observatory and even Disneyland, but with only a night and a morning in the city, neither was realistic. Maybe next trip. In total, we took about three days to drive from LA to Monterey, with stops along the way.
We flew into LAX and followed the purple signs to the rental car shuttles, which took us to Alamo. We had done online check-in beforehand, which meant we could skip the counter queue entirely. The lot itself was a different story. There were simply no cars available when we arrived, and we had to wait for vehicles to roll in before we could get moving. We eventually got a car as requested and paid US$475 for exactly one week, which felt reasonable for a December rental in California.
From there, we drove to Venice Beach, where we had booked a night at Samesun Venice Beach. The location was solid, walking distance to the boardwalk and close enough to Santa Monica to make it a convenient base for our one evening in the area.
Venice Beach, Santa Monica & Hollywood
LA traffic is, predictably, horrendous. We had read enough about it beforehand, but experiencing it firsthand is something else entirely. For some of our time in the city, we opted to skip the car altogether and used Lyft and Waymo instead.
We took a Lyft from Venice Beach to Santa Monica. It was a Sunday and the area was packed, the kind of crowded where you are shoulder to shoulder along the pier and every restaurant has a wait. Santa Monica is undeniably scenic, but the crowds tested our patience a little.
From Santa Monica, we took a Lyft to Hollywood, and even finding a pickup spot was difficult. The Walk of Fame is one of those things you do because you are in LA, not because anyone tells you it is life-changing. We walked along Hollywood Boulevard, saw TCL Chinese Theatre and the handprints, and took the obligatory photos.
The Hollywood Sign was visible from various points in the area, but it is not lit up at night, which was a minor disappointment. We had also considered going up to Griffith Observatory, but by this point we were too tired to make the trek. That would have been a nice addition. Next time.
We then went to In-N-Out Burger near Hollywood before heading back.
Our first Waymo experience
The highlight of the evening was the ride back to Venice Beach. We took a Waymo, our first experience with a fully autonomous vehicle. The car pulled up, we got in, and it just drove.
No driver, no awkward small talk, just a quiet ride through LA streets. It was impressive. The ride was smooth, the navigation was confident, and the whole experience felt remarkably normal for something that is still, objectively, quite extraordinary.
This was particularly notable given that a power failure the week before had reportedly halted many Waymo vehicles across the city. Ours performed flawlessly.
Day 1 on the PCH: LA to San Luis Obispo
The next morning, we checked out of Samesun and officially began the Pacific Coast Highway road trip. This is the stretch of driving that sells California to the world: rugged coastline, crashing waves, golden cliffs, and that particular quality of light that makes everything look like it belongs in a car commercial.
Getty Villa
Our first stop was the Getty Villa in Pacific Palisades. We had not made an appointment in advance, which is normally required, but we arrived early, around 10am, and were lucky enough to be let in. Entrance is free, though you do have to pay for parking.
The Getty Villa is modelled after a first-century Roman country house, and the collection focuses on Greek, Roman, and Etruscan antiquities. Most of the statues are replicas, but the setting is magnificent. The gardens alone are worth the visit. If you are driving up the coast and can spare ninety minutes, it is an easy recommendation.
Malibu & the coast
From the Getty Villa, we continued north along the PCH past Malibu’s famous surf spots. The drive itself is stunning. The road hugs the coastline and the views are relentless. We passed by Zuma Beach and Point Dume, both of which I had visited on a previous trip and got badly sunburnt for my troubles. This time, we did not stop. The parking fees were not worth it for a quick look.
We made a brief stop at the Malibu Country Mart. It was a Sunday and some kind of fair was in progress, so the parking situation was a nightmare. We moved on to Trancas Country Market a bit further up the road instead.
We also tried to stop at Neptune’s Net, a popular seafood spot along the PCH, but it was closed when we arrived. Disappointing, but that is the risk with spontaneous stops.
Point Mugu & heading inland
Past Neptune’s Net, the scenery shifted as we approached Point Mugu. The coastline here is dramatic, the road cuts between sea cliffs and the Pacific. Shortly after, CA-1 turns inland and the ocean disappears for a while.
Ventura Harbor Village
At Ventura, we pulled off the highway to Ventura Harbor Village for lunch. This turned out to be one of the better unplanned stops of the trip. We ate at Brophy Bros., a seafood restaurant right on the harbour.
The place was full for sit-down dining, so we ordered takeaway instead and ate by the water. The food was excellent, and the harbour itself is genuinely scenic: boats, sea breeze, the works.
Parking is free for the first hour, which is just enough time to grab a meal and walk around. Worth a stop if you are passing through Ventura!
Mission Basilica San Buenaventura
Before leaving Ventura, we visited the Mission Basilica San Buenaventura, one of the 21 historic California missions founded by the Spanish. The church dates back to 1782, and while the interior is modest compared to European cathedrals, it carries a sense of history that is hard to find elsewhere along this stretch of coast. A quick visit, but a worthwhile one.
The route mix-up
After Ventura, we drove north on US-101, and here we made a mistake. CA-1 and US-101 diverge north of Ventura, with CA-1 hugging the coast while US-101 runs slightly further inland. We stayed on US-101 without realising the split had happened. In practice, it was not a huge deal as we still caught glimpses of the coast, but if you are doing the PCH for the scenery, make sure you follow CA-1 at the split. We had no idea until well after the fact.
Arroyo Hondo Vista Point
We stopped at Arroyo Hondo Vista Point, a spot we had found on a YouTube video before the trip. It sits right by active railway tracks, the Amtrak Pacific Surfliner runs through here, with sweeping views of the coast.
We arrived during sunset, and the timing was perfect. This is one of those spots that does not show up in most guidebooks but absolutely should.
Lompoc, Vandenberg & driving through the dark
From there, we took the slower CA-1 route through Lompoc, passing by Vandenberg Space Force Base. Unlike Kennedy Space Center and Cape Canaveral Space Force Station in Florida, Vandenberg does not have a visitor centre. It is, however, an active launch site. SpaceX conducts launches from here. The base is visible from the road, but there is not much to stop for as a tourist.
By this point, it was well past dark. We pushed through to San Luis Obispo, where we had booked a night at the Hampton Inn & Suites. After a full day on the road, a reliable chain hotel was exactly what we needed.
Day 2 on the PCH: SLO, Morro Rock & Paso Robles
Pismo Beach & the monarch butterflies
The next morning, we doubled back to Pismo Beach to visit the Monarch Butterfly Grove. We had timed our trip to coincide with the butterfly migration season, and it did not disappoint. The trees were absolutely covered with monarchs. It is a genuinely remarkable sight.
That said, parking was a challenge. December is high season for the butterfly grove, and the number of visitors on a weekend morning was surprising. Plan to arrive early if you can.
Costco & Trader Joe’s
We drove back to SLO to pick up some supplies at Trader Joe’s and Costco. This is not the most glamorous part of a trip report, but if you are a visitor to the United States, a Costco run is its own kind of cultural experience. The prepared meals section is enormous, and the food court hotdog at US$1.50 for a hotdog and a drink remains one of the best value propositions in American food service.
Morro Rock
From SLO, we headed to Morro Rock, the volcanic plug that sits at the entrance of Morro Bay. It is visible from miles away and makes for a striking photo stop. The rock itself is a protected ecological reserve, so you cannot climb it, but the views from the base and the surrounding beach are excellent.
Paso Robles wine country
We continued inland to Paso Robles, California’s increasingly popular wine region. We checked out a few wineries and spent some time at the Allegretto Vineyard Resort, which turned out to be a genuinely beautiful property.
Mediterranean-inspired architecture, manicured grounds, and the kind of peaceful atmosphere you do not expect to find along a road trip. If you are passing through Paso Robles, it is worth a stop even if you are not staying overnight.
The detour inland
Here the trip hit a snag. CA-1, the iconic stretch of highway that hugs the Big Sur coastline, was closed due to a landslide at Ragged Point. This is a recurring issue along Big Sur. The terrain is unstable and road closures happen regularly. It meant we had to bypass some of the most dramatic coastal scenery and head inland on US-101 instead.
It was disappointing, but it also meant we would approach the Monterey Peninsula from the north rather than the south, which worked out fine logistically.
Day 3 on the PCH: Pacific Grove & the 17-Mile Drive
We arrived at the Monterey Bay area and headed to Pacific Grove, since our room at the SpringHill Suites Monterey Bay was not yet ready.
Lovers Point
Lovers Point at Pacific Grove is a small park perched on the rocky coastline. The views are lovely: tide pools, crashing waves, and the occasional seal lounging on the rocks. It is the kind of place where you could easily spend thirty minutes just sitting on a bench and staring at the ocean.
We also walked past the Seven Gables Inn, a historic Victorian-style boutique hotel that sits right on the waterfront. It is the kind of building that makes you want to book a room on the spot.
Dennis the Menace Playground
We also stumbled upon the Dennis the Menace Playground in Monterey, and it is worth mentioning if you are travelling with children. The playground is genuinely impressive: large, well-maintained, and far more creative than your typical park setup.
It was designed with input from Hank Ketcham, the creator of the Dennis the Menace comic strip, who lived in the area. Even without kids in tow, it was hard not to appreciate how well done it is. If you are in Pacific Grove or Monterey with a family, this is an easy recommendation.
Point Pinos Lighthouse
The next morning, we returned to Pacific Grove to visit Point Pinos Lighthouse, the oldest continuously operating lighthouse on the West Coast, dating back to 1855. Opening times are very limited, and it was closed when we arrived. The surrounding coastline is gorgeous for sure.
17-Mile Drive
From Pacific Grove, we entered the 17-Mile Drive. There is a gate fee of just over US$12, which feels reasonable given what you get: one of the most scenic coastal drives in California, winding through Pebble Beach and past some of the most expensive real estate in the country.
The highlights along the route included Bird Rock, a small island absolutely covered with cormorants and sea lions, The Links at Spanish Bay, Cypress Point, the famed Lone Cypress, and finally the Pebble Beach Golf Links, one of the most iconic golf courses in the world.
The whole drive is spectacular. If you have any interest in coastal scenery, it is well worth the admission fee. We would do it again without hesitation.
We had also hoped to spend some time in Carmel-by-the-Sea, which sits just south of the 17-Mile Drive exit and is known for its art galleries, cottages, and a famously dog-friendly beach. Time was not on our side though, and we had to keep moving. Another one for the next trip.
Bixby Bridge
After picking up our things at the SpringHill Suites, we drove south along CA-1 to Bixby Bridge, the single most photographed spot on the Pacific Coast Highway, and in many ways the entire point of this road trip. This was the reason we embarked on this road trip as I never got to see it during our last trip in 2022.
The bridge is an open-spandrel arch that spans a deep canyon, with the Pacific Ocean as its backdrop. It is one of those places that looks exactly like the photos, which almost never happens. We caught it from a distance first, then drove across it. Both perspectives are stunning.
Food along the way
No California road trip is complete without a few food highlights, so here are the ones worth mentioning.
In-N-Out Burger
We hit up an In-N-Out near Hollywood early in the trip. If you have never had it, the hype is mostly justified. The burgers are fresh, the menu is simple, and the prices are shockingly reasonable by any standard. Get the Double-Double, animal style.
eggslut
Another LA institution: eggslut originated in Los Angeles and has since expanded, but having it in its home city felt appropriate. The egg sandwiches are indulgent and unapologetically messy.
Breakfast at Samesun Venice Beach
The hostel included a simple breakfast, which was perfectly adequate for fuelling up before a long day of driving.
Brophy Bros
As mentioned above, excellent seafood right on the harbour. The takeaway option worked well given the wait times for dine-in.
Costco food court
The legendary US$1.50 hotdog combo. Also worth exploring the prepared meals section if you are stocking up for the road.
Next up
From Bixby Bridge, it was onwards to Yosemite National Park. That is a story for part five.
